Mon Journal Francais

John Newman and crew take a Spring trip to France

• JohnNewman
• DaveNewman
• France

Thursday 1st May - May Day: it's dull, drizzly, and my temperature read out is showing nine degrees. We, that is my partner Jo and I, are starting out on a 200 mile ride to London; the first stage of a journey to France to take part in a weekend tenth anniversary gathering organised by Sue Fairbairn and Paul Thomas who operate the delightful Les Ballastieres guest house complex for  motorcyclists at St Pol sur Ternoise, an hour and a half ride south from Calais...www.lesballastieres.com





It's not just about Maypoles, Morris Dancing, dressing up in twigs like a Pagan, garden centres and traffic congestion. It also celebrates International Workers Day and the struggle to attain the eight hour working day. In London's Hyde Park in 1890 a demonstration to support the eight hour demand was attended by 300,000 people. As there was no evidence that a similar gathering would be repeated this year, our contribution to workers security and future was to book our channel crossing with MyFerryLink; owned by the crew via a French workers cooperative.


Living in the north I have moments of distorted satisfaction when the south experiences the same (poor) weather. But it shouldn't happen when I'm setting off for a ride in the south.
We overnighted with my brother Dave, occasional contributor to Wemoto News with stories that inevitably involve dirt and mud under the wheels. We make an odd biking pairing this day. Dave and Jane squeezed onto his lofty KTM625LC4 off roader with luggage, and us, their companion riders on a Moto Guzzi Breva with 'proper' hard luggage and comfy seats.

The dash to Dover is chilly, cloudy and dull as motorway/dual carriageway riding can ever be. Dave's KTM carries a decent speed, and with the often tedious process of check in and loading complete, we're directed forward and eased into the custom built bike slots that have been installed on the MyFerryLink ships. I'm impressed.
There's only one other motorcyclist aboard the Berlioz, and in ninety minutes we've reached a sunny Calais.  Once there we mosey into town past the plastic shelters thrown up by some of the world's desperate people who have been dumped there by traffickers.
Dave's sat nav guides us on a truly rural route south, and between our meal stop and the low average speed, we pull into the Les Ballastierres courtyard lateish, where Sue and Paul have started to wonder as to our whereabouts. There're drinks before dinner, wine with dinner and after dinner drinks ahead, so there's just time to unluggage, shower and change.
Jo and I are the last to leave the pre-dinner bar, and then I realise I don't know the location of the evening's hotel/restaurant gathering, and like most small French towns St Pol is not big on night population. Two blokes are in view,  Jo approaches and asks if they speak English. Not only did one speak perfect English – he runs the French operation of a UK based company – he was also in town as a competitor at the classic bike race meeting at the nearby circuit, and he was racing a Moto Guzzi (1976 Le Mans). What are the chances? He escorted us to our destination and we resolved to see him in the paddock on Sunday.

The sun is still shining, but a brisk north east wind encourages more layers than riders might think necessary.
People gather round their bikes in the courtyard, chatting and preparing for a Ride Out to Samara a large pre-historic site in the Somme Valley. There's a preponderance of Harleys and other cruiser style bikes. But French motorcycle friends of Sue and Paul begin to arrive on other models, including a sleek and very thoroughbred looking Ducati. Dave and I have found a sheltered spot to observe and soak up a few rays: we comment on how the Duke and a couple of quick looking Suzukis may have a frustrating time amongst the V-Twin rumblers.
We've decided not to go on the ride out. Instead we'll high tail it across to the town of Amien. The gigantic cathedral there is a truly wondrous piece of medieval construction that even non-believers can marvel at. The river Somme flows through the middle of the town and there are rows of enticing bars and restaurants to capture your taste buds and Euros. Check it out for a weekend trip across the Channel.
Even though the route is via main roads there is little traffic, and the sun shines on the vivid yellow acres of oil seed Rape,  and illuminates the spring forest foliage creating a pleasing backdrop. On the return leg Dave decides to try some two-up green laneing. He has a memory card for his sat nav detailing the myriad routes across the Somme and Picardy, and there are few restrictions on where you can ride.

Back at the 'ranch' in the evening, bikes are parked up and we all gather in Sue and Paul's club room which can hold a good size crowd. Good food is laid out and barrels contain locally brewed French beer and English ale.
Music is from the Bushman Brothers a pair of musicians for whom the words talent and musicality were invented. They cover everything during the evening from Miles Davis to Gary Moore to Jimi Hendrix to Santana to Dire Straits. Loud and lovely...www.bushmanbrothers.com


Just a few kilometres riding today as most of the assembly are heading to the nearby circuit to watch the classic racing. It's so near it hardly seemed worth kitting up for. But we all took our bikes.
The circuit, Croix en Ternois, is a popular track day destination for UK riders and drivers. It's a small circuit and all the bends demand a high level of concentration and fitness if the intention is to push yourself and bike near the limit...www.circuitdecroix.com

The race meeting was the second in a nine race series across France called Championatte de France Vitesse Motos Anciennes; and this meeting also included modern sidecars, which always spices up proceedings.




The paddock was packed with all manner of interesting and captivating two wheelery, and along with my experience of watching classic racers in the UK, they don't hold back. One civilised difference presented itself: an hour and half for the lunch break, with oysters and chilled white wine available on the bar.  

I caught up with our guide from Friday night. His Guzzi Le Mans was immaculately prepared, but being a long wheelbase bike, and under powered compared to the Norton Commandos, Triumphs and Japanese fours, he was having to work very hard to hold a decent position in the field. The sidecars didn't disappoint. The closest wheel to wheel racing from these eccentric gladiators that I've seen for a long time.
More food treats in the evening, and because the temperature had eased up a few degrees we were all able to gather in the courtyard. Including Sue and Paul's French friends and neighbours who enlivened the musical part of the evening with some enthusiastic dancing to the Brighton based bluesman John Crampton...www.johncrampton.co.uk

It's along stretch to Yorkshire from Les Ball so we prevailed on south coast friends for a night before riding the 270 miles home. This included traversing the Hastings seafront where the annual May Day bikers gathering was under way, with every conceivable space containing a parked up motorcycle, and the pubs, cafes and fish and chip shops thronged with biking humanity.
Sunshine was continuous and a good time was had by all on both sides of the Channel.
John Newman for Wemoto News

There were two reasons for taking the KTM on the jaunt across the Channel. The first was, as John said, to play on the lanes, tracks and trails that criss-cross the countryside of northern France. The other was to give the bike a fully laden shake down before a big on-off road trip across Turkey and Iran in June. I needed to know if the soft panniers and waterproof sausage bag where going to work as my life will be stored in them for a month or so.
We'd left it late to sign up for the weekend so there was no space in the actual guesthouse; but along with about ten others Jane and I stayed in the Les Bal converted hayloft. Paul has built five “pods” that sleep either two or three people. There are showers comfy chairs and coffee making facilities. It is basic indoor camping but more than adequate for a couple of nights or so.
Jane had some revision work to do, which gave me the opportunity to dive off and follow the red lines on my Garmin that took me across farm tracks, through woods and tiny villages. This area of France does not have the most dramatic landscape but away from the main roads it is a lovely place to explore and of course there is so little traffic compared to just about anywhere in mainland UK.
We even managed a bit of two up (trailing), no metaphor intended, on the ride back from Amien. I imagine that most of us off-roady types are the same. If we are travelling along tarmac we are constantly looking out for trails and whenever possible an alternative, dirty route will be taken.
The bike and luggage all seemed good by the end of the weekend so with a bit of final preparation I should be ready in time for the big trip. That will be a first!
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